Clockin' Across the Globe: Top Rolex, Patek Philippe, and More Time Zone Watches
- Blogger: Cathrin Wißmann
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Top-Selling GMT Watches: Exploring the Most Preferred Models from Rolex and Patek Philippe - Top-Rated GMT Watches: Highlights from Rolex and Patek Philippe Collections
In the 1950s, Rolex kingpin Hans Wilsdorf dropped a bombshell: he wanted to secure a whopping order from the burgeoning airline titan, Pan American World Airways (Pan Am). Wilsdorf's strategy? Develop a timepiece that would make navigating various time zones a breeze for those flying high. What if, he thought, pilots could check the destination and home time on a single face?
Twiddling your thumbs and waiting for your phone to connect — that was still a distant dream back then. Travel watches existed, but reading the time was complicated, like Patek Philippe's inaugural Worldtimer "515 HU" (born with clockmaker Louis Cottier in 1937). Its dial displayed 24 global time zones and several city names, which made it more confusing than helpful for pilots. Plus, it was a pocketbook drain.
Thanks to Pan Am, the Rolex "GMT-Master" Took Off
Wilsdorf envisioned a model tailor-made for everyday folks, based on GMT (Greenwich Mean Time), sporting a second hour hand, and a 24-hour rotating bezel for easier timekeeping. Wilsdorf's design snagged Pan Am's attention, sending it into production in 1955.
The "GMT-Master" turned out to be a drop-the-mic moment for Rolex. It wasn't just pilots who wanted a piece of the action; the jet-set crowd, and those who aspired to be, joined in. Today, 70 years later, the Rolex model remains one of the most sought-after — and imitated — watches in the world. Its price tag: around 11,000 Euros.
Batman, Sprite, Pepsi: Rolex's Colorful Nicknames
Thanks to Rolex's knack for experimenting with new bezel colors, their catchy monikers have lives of their own. For instance, the watch with a black-blue bezel earned itself the nickname "Batman," black-green earning the title "Sprite." The classic red-blue model goes by "Pepsi," not "Pan Am."
Some watch enthusiasts also seek out lowkey models that don't break the bank. It's not always about Rolex: For instance, check out Longines' "Spirit Zulu Time," supposedly the first-ever wristwatch with dual time zones (developed in 1925). In honor of its 100th anniversary, the brand is launching a model with a sapphire crystal case back and a rose gold bezel. Price tag: 4,500 Euros.
A bit lighter on the wallet (3,940 Euros) and bursting with color is Nomos' "Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer." The first world time watch from the Glashütte brand comes in six vivid color combinations, each promising a good vibe regardless of your time zone.
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Watch Evolution History
The Rolex GMT-Master timepiece boasts a rich history that spans over six decades, transforming significantly since its inception. Here's a look at its evolution, popularity, and iconic models:
Development:
- Inception (1954): The first Rolex GMT-Master debuted in 1954, designed primarily for Pan Am pilots to simplify timezone navigation during flights. It featured a rotating bezel with a 24-hour scale for easy tracking.
- Technological Advancements: Over the years, the GMT-Master series has integrated numerous technological advancements, such as the use of ceramic bezels, first introduced in the 2007 GMT-Master II reference 116710.
Popularity:
The GMT-Master rapidly garnered popularity among pilots and globetrotters for its dual-timezone functionality, making cross-region navigation a breeze. Its iconic design and durability also made it a favorite among collectors and aficionados.
Notable Models:
- GMT-Master Reference 1675:
- Released in 1959, this model marked a significant change in the series, featuring a distinctive bezel insert and cementing its place in the pantheon of pilot's watches.
- GMT-Master II Reference 116710:
- Produced from 2007 to 2019, this reference represented the third generation of the GMT-Master II series, known for its modern materials and performance enhancements, including the introduction of ceramic bezels.
- GMT-Master II Reference 126710:
- Introduced in 2018, this model represents the current generation, merging dual-timezone functionality with modern Rolex innovations like the caliber 3285 movement and signature ceramic bezels.
These models have contributed to the enduring popularity and timeless allure of the Rolex GMT-Master series.
- I'm not sure if a single face watch was ever developed to display both the destination and home time in the 1950s, but the Patek Philippe "515 HU" had a dial that displayed 24 global time zones and several city names, making it more confusing than helpful for pilots.
- In modern times, people are not only interested in high-end fashion-and-beauty brands like Rolex, but also affordable alternatives that offer similar technology, such as Nomos' "Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer" priced at 3,940 Euros.
